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The first is flat pattern drafting. This is essentially drafting out the shapes with pencil, paper, compass, and curved templates or sketching the shapes free hand, using a tape measure to reference your constructed body. The second, discussed in the next chapter, is called draped pattern making. It requires a firm form—your doll body—which is draped with fabric. The fabric is pinched up and pinned to the shape of the hard form and then excess fabric is cut away. The costume can be constructed directly on the body and a paper pattern might not even be needed.

The fabric is pinched up and pinned to the shape of the hard form and then excess fabric is cut away. The costume can be constructed directly on the body and a paper pattern might not even be needed. Once you get the hang of it, you will find it fast and easy. This is the way I do costuming for my dolls. In brief, the differences are: Flat Pattern Drafting — measuring, drawing, paper pattern, muslin test pieces, machine sewn, removable clothing, sometimes bulky Draped Pattern Making — final clothing, paper pattern optional, best fit, 80 percent handsewn, usually not removable For those mainly interested in costuming uniform bodies such as porcelain reproductions and toy-like play dolls, there are several good books containing both ready-to-use patterns and step-by-step instructions.

When sewing, this difference is eased in to fit the shape of the curve with a gathering stitch. On most patterns the dashed line is the sewing line and the solid line is the line followed for cutting out the fabric. So, the solid measurement lines you started with in drafting the shape become the dashed sewing line. Helen L. Langhorne, Santa is Legendary, 12 inches, polymer clay, wire armature. Photo by Taylor Dabney.