By Carl McLaughlin

This e-book covers the entire components one must understand while modeling AFVs portray, dry-brushing, photo-etched components even diorama development. Its chapters and writing variety is specified by a logical and easy-to-read manners

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Extra resources for How to Model World War II German Armor

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Make a secure knot. Place the button on top of the knot, and stitch the button to the body through the holes. You may find it helpful to pinch the body so that you can more easily stitch in and out of the buttonholes. When the button is securely attached with multiple stitches, insert the needle into a buttonhole and bring it out the underside of the button, on top of the body. Make a wide loop with the thread, and tie a knot around the underside of the button. A square knot will hold more securely.

Stuffing and Closing Up There are several ways to finish a piece, but the most common way in toy patterns is to draw the yarn through the last stitches and cinch them closed together. Unless it is open-ended, stuff the piece before closing it up. You should begin stuffing a few rounds before the end of the piece, when the opening is still big enough to reach inside. When stuffing a large toy, you may need to use more stuffing than you would expect in order to completely fill out the shape, including all nooks and crannies.

Rnds 33 and 34: Knit. Rnd 35: [K2tog, k5] 8 times (48 sts). Rnd 36: Knit. Switch to DPNs now or whenever it’s comfortable. Rnds 37–43: Continue to decrease 8 stitches every other round, with the number of knit stitches after the k2tog decreasing by 1 each time, until 16 stitches remain. Rnd 44: [K2tog] 8 times (8 sts). Break yarn and draw tightly through the stitches with a tapestry needle. TONGUE/MOUTH LINING With C, cast on 26 stitches onto 3 DPNs and join to work in a round. Rnds 1–10: Knit.

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